I think the typical recommendation would be “the 100” (Link to GitHub). There are a few other projects like it. I think that should be a good starting point for a search though if that particular one is not your cup of tea.

We’re in the age of easily accessible, great quality hardware though. Just from a performance point, 3d printing will be worse in most respects comparatively (still “good enough” though if using a modem design). Look at a Voron V0 kit as an example (or one of the other printers for ants, if you’re looking for more complexity). Uses nothing but readily accessible parts, reasonably priced and incredible performance.

Nextcloud can’t do two-way sync on Android. At all. That’s like core functionality for the product IMHO and there’s a feature request open I think. When I found that out, I basically spit out my coffee. It’s fine if you just want to upload photos you take, that kinda works (but my god is it fragile).

Nextcloud is pretty good at quite a few things, including extensibility, but having some omissions in functionality that boggle the mind.

Any particular reason? That’s a 10 (ish) year old design. Outside of nostalgia or deliberately checking out designs from that era, I see very little reason to pick this as a project.

That may well be the case that this is what he means, but how would we know when he calls it tilt shift anyway? Cause that’s not what “tilt shift” means.

If he wants to say it’s photoshopped or whatever, just say that instead of using terms that clearly don’t apply.

There is no tilt shifting in that photo. Neither physical (by actually tilting a single lens inside the lens assembly) nor digital. What you’re seeing as blurryness is just normal how camera focus works.

They may have applied a slight vignette blur to the edges, but it’s really hard to tell with the light bleed on the left edge.

But that’s my point. They didn’t change. In decades. Did your even read the OP?

What else do you want from that email? You got a new subscriber. There’s their name. Why change the layout just for the sake of change? Surely there are people having rules or automations tied to them, why brake them? Just for funsies?

Another name, depending on the exact context, is “hairpin NAT”. Should make googling with the specific router OP has easier.

I had one broken spoke in around 40 years of cycling. I always thought it was basically impossible to break them, even if the bike is 20+ years old. I guess you just need the right (wrong?) circumstances…

Since you’re specifically looking to replace OneNote, you might want to take a look at BookStack. It has similar organizational concepts, and I think it’s FOSS.

But that’s the problem. For some reason tv show episodes get voted higher relatively speaking. So a 7.0 movie is kinda ok, but a 7.0 tv episode is probably pretty bad.

I guess it comes from the pool of people who vote on series are more inclined to liking it, since they somehow got to watch a season 3 episode. If they hated the show as they probably wouldn’t get that far. Movies are one-off by design and anyone could watch and rate it, obviously.

One small addendum/correction: I meant Stealth changer (which is based on Tap changer), but got the names confused.

Not trying to make the choice harder, but mailbox.org seems to fit into the choices as well (also hostesd in Germany). Also in terms of hosting in Switzerland, keep in mind that it’s not actually part of the EU, which is the primary/original source for many of the privacy laws you probably care about if you’re looking into these providers.

Oh I’m tired, so I should sleep? Phew, so glad I had this guide to help me figure that out, never would’ve occurred to me. 🙄

Because they don’t want you to host things at your house, even though that’s perfectly fine from a technical standpoint. They might want to sell you a “business” line for this, or they just don’t want the traffic (since at least in my area, traffic is always included in any home Internet connection).

I know this post is quite a few days old already, but I still wanted to add a bit to the discussion.

The printers you list vary wildly. Both in terms of design goals (“what is the printer meant to do well”) and assembly requirement (from “ready to print in 10 minutes” to “you build this for like a week until something moves”). A Qidi is basically ready to go, a Prusa will take some time to put together (how much depends on if you got it as a kit or fully assembled). A Voron 2.4 takes about a week to build just for the printer, not including ERCF and/or tool changer, let alone tuning of said ERCF/tool changer.

Also there’s the Troodon, which is a Formbot prebuilt that is closer to a real Voron 2.4 than a Sovol SV08, just to add to your list. It has a stock stealthburner tool head compared to the proprietary thing that Sovol uses, for example.

I’ve recently built a Voron 2.4r2 (Formbot kit) and loved it, but it was like my 4th printer (and a previous printer was a self-sourced scratch build). So do you have experience with 3d printers, and building them or tinkering with them? I would probably not recommend building one otherwise, but it’s not impossible either, just expect a relatively steep learning curve if you have no prior experience.

Do you want to mostly just print in colors but same filament ype, or do you want to mainly have multi-material capabilities? So do you need 5+, or would 2 colors with the option to expand work for you?

If the Voron is a real option for you, I’d highly recommend it. Just make sure you’re going with a can-bus based build/kit (like Formbot). These days I wouldn’t go with an ERCF due to the complexity of building it and then setting it up, as tuning is supposedly a bit of a process. Also you mentioned that the amount of waste during multi-color prints is a real factor for you, and that puts single-nozzle systems inherently at a disadvantage as you just have to purge the hotend on every change. So I would suggest a tool changing system, and I would either start with that (but just 2 tool heads), or add it as the first project. Specifically, I would suggest using the Tapchanger as a modern system. Frankly adding a tool head like that is much less effort than building an ERCF, but also just adds 1 filament each and not like 9 at once.

Without more information what exactly you want to do/learn, that’s kinda hard. Racing? Acrobatics? Micros/Woops (flying in your home/garage)? Drone as a cinematic camera (DJI-style) or faster camera work (chasing motocross riders for video for example)?

Also specific recommendations for hardware heavily depend on this and just personal preference, and what else you might want to do with the radio and/or video equipment. As an introduction and overview, like someone else has already commented, check out Joshua Bardewell on youtube. He literally makes everything from introduction, basic tutorial, to advanced guides and deep dives into anything drone-related as his full time job.

All of the OpenTX/EdgeTX radios work on Linux as a controller, and generally most radios that support this probably will, because they just appear as a joystick (HID profile). There are also ways of connecting them other than just plugging the radio into usb and selecting “controller mode”, but even those usually result in a joystick device I think? So which radio in particular mostly depends on what kind of drone you want to fly, if you want to fly other things (plane, helicopter, scale models), or drive other things (cars/boats/crawling/scale models). Also ergonomics (size of hands, similar to a classic radio or similar to a game controller?) and just personal preference, mostly.

As for the Sim, I think Liftoff has a native Linux port, but these days most of the sims should just work anyway with the recent developments of valve for the steamdeck.

No matter which kind you pick, you always start with a simulator unless you have more money than sense. There are free ones, and good ones aren’t expensive either. Radios these days can just be plugged into a computer so you’re using your actual controller for the simulator, too.