I’ve had an Ender 3 v2 for a few years now and have had mostly no issues. I’ve upgraded the hot end to a microswiss direct drive and a dual z setup (twin z steppers on a shared cable).

Recently started having issues with the 4.2.2 board and replaced it with a BTT mini SKR 3 v3.

Since I’ve put the new board in, I am having troubles getting the bed to level and stay level.

The height profile of the bed is now showing a dip in the centre (which was not there before). When I run a print it seems to be overcompensating for the dip. If I level the bed with the corner screws and don’t use the bed mesh then it prints fairly good, but after a few prints the bed goes out of level again.

I can’t seem to make any adjustments that help the issue. Yesterday tightened up all the screws (silicon spacers instead of springs). Releveled the bed and had a small dip in the middle and an overall height difference of 0.170 across the bed (normal prior to this was 0.310). Sent a print with bed mesh and mostly came out good.

Went to fire up a new print today and the bed height is showing 0.830 overall difference.

I’m not sure if it is a BL touch issue (the BL touch is a v3.1 and is original with a single 5 wire connector plugged into mini SKR) dual z issue (disconnected 1 in an attempt to level and didn’t see much difference, the BTT has two connectors for dual z but run off one stepper driver as I understand it, I am using the y cable for only one stepper motor, while the other motor has its own cable).

I use klipper with a RPi zero 2 w.

I just can’t seem to figure out that has been causing the issue since the board swap.

Anyone have some ideas as where to point me?

  • FiveMacs@lemmy.caEnglish
    3·
    11 months ago

    Tbh, I threw the bl touch in the garbage and just eyeball my levelling. It’s never failed me on any print. Takes more time and patience but I know it’s done right.

    • xzot746@sh.itjust.worksOPEnglish
      3·
      11 months ago

      I’ll try running sans BL Touch, it’s just weird that it was working before the board change without issue. I’ve cranked down on the silicon spacers to make sure it’s difficult for them to loosen up over time, will see how that goes.

      Thanks for your comment.

      • damium@programming.devEnglish
        4·
        11 months ago

        You might also try running a few leveling probes in a row to check the repeatability of the measurements. It’s possible that something is messing with the ability to make good measurements (unstable power feed, heat warp, probe binding, etc).

          • rug_burn@sh.itjust.worksEnglish
            1·
            11 months ago

            Would seem odd, but if it seems like your leveling wheels are backing off, maybe the threads are worn on them? It would suck to replace them only to find out that wasn’t the issue though, but if you have a spare set / originals if you’ve upgraded, maybe see if those are more stable?

            • xzot746@sh.itjust.worksOPEnglish
              1·
              11 months ago

              I have aluminum wheels in place if the original, they seem to be staying tight, but maybe not.

              I did notice that the plastic heater wire retainer is deforming in the middle, so maybe that is contributing, I will put a larger washer on it when I reassemble the unit.

              Thanks for the comment.

    • arc@lemm.eeEnglish
      2·
      11 months ago

      BL touch works great but you need to get the Z offset. Then you can just G29 before the print or whenever and it works great. I hate manual levelling and these days there isn’t much reason for it. I’ve just upgraded to a Bambu P1S and levelling is even more straightforward since there is no Z-offset since it uses the hotend itself to probe.